Archive for the ‘The Book’ Category

Cold Beer and Warm Women: Communist Tourism in Krakow

02/17/2010

I’m currently working on a chapter about Nowa Huta, a suburb of Krakow, Poland. Here’s a brief summation.

Nowa Huta was built between 1949-1954 to support the Lenina steel works. The city was constructed by workers brought in from all over Poland and in 1949, the area was nothing but farmland; by 1954 housed nearly 200,000 workers in one of the finest examples of deliberate social engineering in the world. Described as a “Polish socialism city of dreams” Nowa Huta is now a tourist attraction — a group of young entrepreneurs have formed a company called Crazy Guides, offering communist-themed tours of Krakow that include a visit to an “authentic” communist apartment and a ride through Nowa Huta in a GDR-built Trabant.

According to Jakub, general manager at Crazy Guides, an overwhelming number of people lived normal lives under communism. The conditions were different than in Western countries, of course, but people raised families and had fun just like in the West.

Nowa Huta was one of the most successful communist projects in Poland and one of the goals of the tour is to show that there were, as my guide Eryk puts it, good points to communism.

“Our parents lived through communism. They survived and they had fun. There was fun,” says Eryk. “We grew up under this and it’s really disrespectful to say that it was all bad. People lived, had families. I’m a child of that period. We are all a result of that period. And look at me – I’m a bit twisted, but I’m doing quite well.”

Is what Crazy Guides are doing simply nostalgia tourism? There are definitely elements of nostalgia, but neither Eryk or Jakub believe what they do is simply caterer to a desire to return to an idealized past.

“My parents and grandparents did experience life under communism and we have to live with this reality as well,” says Jakub. “We see communism all over the place, still. In particular in my grandparent’s generation. My grandmother says that everything’s the same, that nothing has changed. Maybe we can travel abroad a bit more, but it makes difference to her. It’s of no advantage. My grandfather sees it this way: in communist times we had warm vodka and cold women. Now we have cold vodka and warm women.”

This brings me to the other half of the Crazy Guides organization, the Crazy Stag, basically Pimp-my-Ride plus a stag party. Crazy Guides provide a pimped out shaggin’ wagon for a stag party on wheels. Extras available include sexy hitchhikers, a bad cop booty call and the option of having the groom-to-be kidnapped by Polish mafia.

Communist kitsch and sex tourism: Welcome to the new Poland.

Check out Crazy Guides online.

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Welcome to Lenin Land…

02/16/2010

Hi, hello and welcome to “Adventures in Lenin Land”.

About the project:

This blog is part of an ongoing book project looking at the intersection of history and tourism in the former USSR. Over the past three years I’ve spend a good deal of my time exploring the former Soviet Union and Eastern Europe, looking at museums and tourist attractions that find novel and controversial ways of dealing with the Soviet legacy. Think Lenin Land, Club Gulag, Bus Tour Chernobyl and Stalin Tours. Think former Soviet prisons turned hostels, “authentic” Soviet apartment tours and Cold War bunkers in Moscow hosting your office party. Think and then re-think Soviet history as you know it.

As I’m working on the book I will be posting out-takes, previews and news links related to the project. I’ll also be streaming photos of my travels (past, present and future) via my flickr account.

Welcome to the wacky world of post-Soviet tourism. I hope you’ll visit again and visit often.

Medeine Tribinevicius